Mode Zero

As an aside, I have one of the ATMega32U4 Strong boards - It flashes the firmware fine and the only drawback that I can see on the face of it is the lack of A6 and A7 being broken out to a header. I think a quick mod to the firmware to set rates = 0 and expo = 0 so the firmware never actually interrogates the analogue input pins will remove the problem of the input being left floating will allow this boards use (providing rates and expo isn't a thing for you!)

I guess another downside to this board is the price being 50% more than the 328p strong board but I do just happen to have one.

The same quick mod to provide input voltage to the RF module by removing the 3v3 regulator and strapping the Vin to the Vout and away we go (I think). I'm looking to fit it all inside a computer joypad type case I have for a CNC pendant with the flysky RM003 tx module sticking out the back but it needs a bit of work to make it wider. I do wish people would upload their designs in a modifiable format and not an STL if it is for general release.



ModuleFans https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32867119179.html seems to stock the range

Looks cute! I dont have a 3D printer nor the artistry to create these things so I'm always in awe of those who do
Bill's Codamac, the one that needed a channel adding also used a PS gimbal: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=458
I also tried Playstation gimbals but found they were a bit too coarse for me, and needed a significant deadband for centring:
Eg the Micro-2:
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=777&p=6208

I have flown it a few times but much prefer a conventional stick like the Mini-2:
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=650&p=4964
This is the transmitter that lives in a RUB box in my van with a Lidl Glider & a Uke (flown by Mike_K and played by Pete_C respectively!)

Ukelele is allso RC ?

Everyone should have a dog, a SAS Wildthing, and a Uke

Does the dog fit in the box as well ?

I give up
The latest batch arrived, and they're soldered up again.
£100 spent - cant afford to keep trying...

Oh dear... maybe develop the dip switches on a riser and mount them on the front of the transmitter case? Otherwise the only way is as Mike suggested, remove the plastic part and carefully de-solder each pin separately, if you pull the pin through from the soldered side it usually leaves the hole clear. It will occupy a rainy day!

Whenever I need to remove those headers, I remove the plastic part first, add some flux and heat up the solder while holding the board between my fingers, tap my wrist against the table and they fly off, leaving a clear hole.

Phil, if there is a way to avoid paying VAT and Duties, I'll be more than happy to clean up the boards for you.

Regards,
René
The Netherlands