Mode Zero

Mike_K wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 13:18 Would it help for me to expand the instructions for using the USBASP for others who are having a go themselves?

Hi Mike,
Yes that might help other newbees to usbasp programming. I have dabbled with serial programming before, and have tried to find info on USBASP programming on the Arduino website, but I have a feeling those instructions are a bit out of date.

The points that I stumbled over are:

- there is no need for a driver to be selected (at least not on my Mac, don't know about Windows)
- You have to upload a sketch using "Upload via Programmer" in the "Sketch" menu (please check the wording, my UI is in Dutch), not via the Upload button in the sketch window.
- ignore the warning: "cannot set sck period"

The OS Pixie looks the part Mike! I am settling for a fantasy casing, fairly straightforward, I will show some pictures when it is finished.

Getting there, thanks for the comments!

Max.

I should have responded sooner, but I'm abroad at the moment.

For starting the USBASP programming I always use this short key: Ctrl + Shift + U

If need be, Max and I can always get together and see what we can come up with.

Still remember the hard time I had trying to program a ATtiny 85 with this USBASP.
Turned out, mine was missing jumper 3 that slows down the clock frequency to where the ATtiny can grasp it first time. From there one can toggle up its clock and all goes like with Pro Mini and Nano...
I wouldn't have found it on my own and found myself lucky when I got help through our national modelling forum.

I have gotten to the test phase. I am still waiting for some of the parts, the beeper and, silly enough, the jumpers. But I saw no harm in powering up the Arduino and start testing the software and hardware. I had built Phil's Pulse Tester earlier, so I hooked that up to the ppm pinout. 4 pulses appeared on the screen.

Not having any jumpers in places 4 and 5, I entered the Compound and Electric modes.
I did not enter programming mode, so all should be set to default. Default servo config. is RETS (rudder-elevator-throttle-switch)

After a fair bit of confusion with the elevator kick-up and the throttle not working, I re-read the instructions on operating the throttle, and it occurred to me that I should have "started" the motor first by holding the button for a while. After that it reacted on short blips as it should. After a while it stops reacting and stays at 1.0 ms, I guess that is due to the run timer cutting the throttle.

I got the elevator to work, but only if by measuring the button pressing properly. Too slow, and the rudder reacts. One push too many and the throttle reacts. Maybe that is how it is supposed to be, and I just have to get used to that
Max.

(I edited this post several times, we call that "voortschrijdend inzicht". Now pronounce that... )

"(I edited this post several times, we call that "voortschrijdend inzicht". Now pronounce that... )"
Probably what we call "Finger trouble" or even a PEBCAK (problem exists between chair and keyboard). Second only to an AFLO

MaxZ wrote: 30 Apr 2019, 14:31I got the elevator to work, but only if by measuring the button pressing properly. Too slow, and the rudder reacts. One push too many and the throttle reacts. Maybe that is how it is supposed to be, and I just have to get used to that
Max.

(I edited this post several times, we call that "voortschrijdend inzicht". Now pronounce that... )

We'll check it against mine, which is a simplified version of Phil's SC part of the 7 channel Arduino sketch, with the throttle pointer borrowed and adapted from Frank's.
I can work all three functions from one button. After all, it's only 50 years ago since the last time I flew SC...
It's all in the timing: "rechts", "en-links", "en-dan-up".
Throttle works, like proposed to me by Martin, by flicking the button with your thumb nail, just like 'tiddlywinks' or as we say "Vlooienspel" (Flea game)....

Anyway, I can -albeit with a light Amsterdam accent- say "voortschrijdend inzicht", so what's supposed to be difficult about that?....

Hi Max

To get the correct rudder, throttle and elevator command takes a lot of practice with a push-button and is why most of us don't bother with kick-up elevator and some don't bother with blip throttle either. All the single channel models I fly have only a rudder and 3 position blip-throttle, with no elevator fitted to the model and elevator disabled on the transmitter.

After two years of practice, I can just about fly a fairly fast single channel model OK on the button, but I need a slower model to feel completely comfortable. In fact, for the first year, I used a converted multi-channel transmitter with single channel emulation. I used my own designed encoder, but Phil's 7 channel encoder has single channel emulation as well (it was his original idea), so if you convert a 4/5/6 or 7 channel transmitter such as an old Futaba, Sanwa, Graupner, Multiplex etc and fly a single channel model with rudder, elevator and throttle you can fly it normally on the joysticks, but you can also fly it "single channel" with the push-button. If you make a mistake with the push-button, then you can "rescue" yourself by reverting to the joysticks. It saved me from crashing many times, so I learnt at a quicker rate and didn't have to repair so many models

But persevere with single channel as it is very rewarding when you finally master it.

Cheers

Mike

Spike S wrote: 30 Apr 2019, 15:36 Probably what we call "Finger trouble" or even a PEBCAK (problem exists between chair and keyboard). Second only to an AFLO

Not really, google does a proper translation if you are interested. Mostly used by politicians who are trying to explain their sudden course change.

And I know what AFLO is, I had plenty of those, even today.....

Mike, I have one of Phil's pre-programmed S/C boards, and I hook that up as a "student" to my Multiplex Tx, so a flying buddy can stand by as rescuer when I get my button-pressing finger in a twist. But it is a while ago, and I did not use it much since it was a bit troublesome to set the combo up properly. Your S/C design gives me more set up potential, so I decided to have a go ( and I like an electronics project now and then).

Max.

Finished, except for the parts I am still waiting for, beeper and jumpers:

Wow,
Love it Max.

Great idea making it out of wood. Nice decals too. I’d finish it off with a personalised serial number plate on the back.

Well done.

Ps what’s it covered in?

Ron.