Mode Zero

Just on with a micro size sharkface. 14” span
Scale is 65%

What do you recommend for the hinges? It’s on 16th balsa. Was thinking of solorfilm.

Ron.

ronstv wrote: 20 May 2018, 13:49 What do you recommend for the hinges? It’s on 16th balsa. Was thinking of solorfilm.

This should be a nice wee handful

I've been using glue hinges for the last few of years - on ALL sizes of electric models - lots of depron .

Run a bead of 'UHU Por' along the vee edges of both surfaces, leave for a MINIMUM of 45mins to cure, then with both surfaces on a flat table for alignment, carefully bring them together and you'll end up with a very strong, nigh invisible hinge. Like all contact adhesives, you just get the one chance
Had no issues with the surfaces parting company - even on fairly serious 3D models. Works on solarfilm covered surfaces too. Remove with acetone if desired. Haven't tried it on solartex, but it will probably work fine.

Wouldn't recommend for IC models - fuel may dissolve hinge.

Neil

My smallest model has a 25cm (10") wingspan. The rudder is sewed on (with real thread, not the fake one you use on your Pulstar). If done properly it works perfect. You will not get a hinge which will work easier.
But the Uhu Por method, Neil recommanded, is fine also. I use it on several other small models, even with ic engines. No problem.
But the best way with a real free swinging rudder is the sewn on thread method.

Frank

Thanks guys,
I’ll try the uhu method. Do you think normal yellow tube uhu will work? It’s all I have at the moment.

Ron.

No, I don´t think so, you have to use UHU Por.

Frank

Thanks Frank.

Might try the single edge tape method. I’ll practice on some scrap first.

Ron.

After practicing the hinging I decided to go fuzzy Mylar method. No splits after been very careful.

Ron.

I use diamond tape for hinges on small models (the clear sellotape that lasts out in the sun for years and years). It works best when the model is covered in solarfilm or similar as the tape sticks to that really well, but can be peeled back off without damage if that ever proves necessary.

You can either just bevel the rudder and put a strip of tape the full length of the rudder to make a hinge on the one side, or if you want it to be symmetrical you can cross over the tape in the middle (like the sewn 'figure of 8' hinges we used to make).

For the crossover sort you stick two short bits of tape to each other so at the join they are sticky side to sticky side, and this double thickness part forms the crossover. In the ASCII art below, showing an edge-on cross-section of the tape greatly magnified, the === is the non-sticky side of the tape and the +++ is the sticky side.
One end of the exposed sticky tape sticks to, say, the left side of the rudder, the double part that isn't sticky on either side crosses through the fin/rudder join, and the exposed sticky part on the other end sticks to the right side of the fin. You need a second piece of back-to-back tape, the opposite way round immediately above - and the two pieces (four bits of tape) together form one, really free, hinge. Obviously you need at least two such "hinges" to properly hinge the control surface.

It will be interesting to watch the micro-sharkie fly! It will most likely buzz around like a demented wasp!

Thanks for the feedback guys.
That’s it, it’s complete apart from a motor, which I need to source yet.
It should be interesting flying it if nothing else.


Ron.