Mode Zero

Hi Tobe,
I still have an old original Rand actuator that works stil rather fine after 1 drop of oil on each of the motor bearings.
It would be nice to make it fy again. Can I order a pic from you, so that I can build my own system with the stable 5 or so volts on the logic and a stabilised 2.5 volt on the motor Vin of the DRV8838.
I am thinking of a Goldberg Junior Falcon or similar replica.

instead of a 5V battery and 2.5V stabilised to the motor, why not a 2.4V NiCad or NimH to the motor and a regulated 5V via a voltage converter like the U1V10F5 to the receiver and logic?
https://www.pololu.com/product/2564
That's what I fly.

That would also be my solution for a glider or IC motorised model.
For an electric with Bec i prefer the RC directly from the BEC and the 2.4 volts from a DC-DC directly from the 2S LiPo. This would give the highest efficiency and simplicity and low weight (for an E powered model).

Rick check your PM

Tobe

Here a few hints concerning the installation and set up of the actuator


3 leads connector should be connected to the aileron and the single lead to elevator. After You have done it you might have to follow this set up:
The recoder design is such that all adjustments if required would be done at the transmitter using travel volume, in fact the best way to set it up is to program elevator and throttle to very low travel. Then, with the sticks at neutral and with the linkages made and the surfaces flapping (only slightly at this stage), increase the elevator throw to give a rapid oscillation and just a few degrees of rotary movement on 'down' and maybe 240 degrees of rotary movement on 'up'. Then rudder travel volume is increased so that at full 'up' elevator and full rudder, the Rand is just short of cycling - ie it shouldn't ever fully rotate. GG is by its very nature a compromise, so some adjustment for best effect will be necessary - always aiming for as much movement as possible whilst avoiding 'cycling' on full throws.
In most cases You don't have to do anything as the actuator should fully work out of the box but some radios...

My Tobe GG actuator didn't have enough grunt to control my full size 48" wsp electric powered Mambo. Model was scratch built from Outerzone plans. No doubt it would be fine in a Mini-Mambo and similar sized/wing loaded models. I installed two Hitec HS-55's and now the model is fully controllable and is now a real pleasure to fly. It loves to thermal despite it's bulky 50's trainer looks. I am surprised how much I enjoy the model being a scale and sport model flyer

I used Sig Cub yellow dope and red translucent wing and stab covering. Wing logos were on Outerzone with plans and patterns. Had Callie Graphics make the original Sterling Wing Logos. Power is an old Thunder Tiger .10 brushless motor and 2200 mah 3S lipo.

Surprised re your experience with the Tobe Rand.

I have a Ghost Rider 38 with around a 200w power system and have plenty of control authority. A great aerobatic model with a symmetrical wing if you're not familiar with it. Designed by Dave Boddington.

Cheers,

Shaun

Ps, the model looks great.

That's probably because it's so well built Shaun!
Gary

Yes but for that to happen, two modellers would have to be daft enough to arrange to have the model built on one side of the planet and then have it posted to the other.

Nice Mambo E-Challenged.

Shaun does your Ghost Rider 38 try to fly inverted at your home field?