Mode Zero

Hi Neil

My goodness that's one chunky looking wing section for a glider. Somebody commented it was more like a Clark Shoe section rather than a Clark Y. Having seen it drawn on the plan, I think it looks more like a Clark Boot section!

But who am I to question it? I've never tried a glider with anything more than around 12% thickness and that was an experiment to see if a thick section with inherent structural strength was better than a thinner section that weighed more due to strengthening (this was before the days of carbon fibre to stiffen things). The thin section performed better, but if you wanted a slower flying model, then probably no problem. And if Phil says it flies OK, then that is probably proof enough.

I think you'll get a few requests for the MK2 thin section wing version...

Cheers

Mike

The nose does pull in a bit, its just aesthetics thats all.

OK, moved it around +/-3mm - 6mm in total. v1.02

The dihedral - no braces but the inner ribs of the tip sections and the outer ribs of the centre section are cut from 1/4" and angle-sanded to about 3/32 at the spar - or they cut the ribs from 1" TE stock. The 3 sections are then just butt-jointed with glue - I'm sure that as an ARTF it was supplied as 3 panels.
The panel side of each 'dihedral rib' is set at 90 degrees ie parallel to all the others, only the glued face is angled. I spose had I realised that I could have split a panel to get the section!!!

OK, I've changed the plan to add an extra laminated rib at each of the wing roots, the dihedral can easily be sanded in after build - probably best to sand mating faces so that the rib faces match. The ribs are 2.4mm, so nearly 5mm root ribs, will that be sufficient for the dihedral ? I don't want to faff about with wee bits of extra sheet material and TE section. There's nothing to stop the student from cutting their own from TE and 6mm sheet of course

Will the kit have slotted LE & TE Neil? that would make it a much easier & quicker build.

I'd have to think about that, I don't normally do strip materials - the TE is 5mm. I only really use 3 sizes of timber 1.5. 2.4 and 3.0 plus various plies. I really can't stock all timber sizes and TBH, wood over 3mm never cuts that nicely, there's always some focus artifact (have a look at some of the chinese laser manufactured kits, all cremated and edges at 80deg )
However, there's nothing to stop us using 2 layers of 2.4 - there could be a narrower section on top where the bevel would be sanded - let me have some thoughts on that. Bear in mind that I am not a 12 person production unit with massive funds and material at my disposal - I just do this to feed my modelling habit in retirement (although I do have massive amounts of machines )
The LE is another matter, it could also be laminated, but then the cost goes up as the cutting time goes up.
Perhaps butt jointed ribs would be fine rather than have them inset into mortises ?? The ribs are 2.4, so have a decent surface area to glue up ?

The plan looks great. "Dixie"? "Quicksie"? "Riskie"? (copyright!) "Trixie"?
Its very close to a wrap I think!

Think we need that referendum then, I stuck Mode Zero Goblin on the plan as a starting point so that it in no way bore ANY resemblance to anything with the 'ixie' word

PS - Just spotted the 'Phil Tips'

Forever cast in a pdf

PPS I trim mine by moving the battery around, so the CG varies from around the spar to about an inch behind it. If its windy, I move it forward, if its light I move it back. Moving it an inch or so in total covers all bases. Its a 4xAAA NiMh and there is a small lead weight right at the nose, maybe 1/2 oz or so (guessing)

So I'll make a slot for the CG marker then

PPPS not sure if I'm alone on this but I'd rather pay the postage than have jointed sides (pretty please?

Probably not alone, but it's the physics cap'n - laser bed is 610x309 (2'x1' in old money) - the fuselage is longer than that. There are number of other issues too, the main one being cardboard boxes - such a simple thing, but cost an absolute fortune in small quantities at the correct size. I now have to laser cut my own boxes - again, size matters - think the longest I can do is 460mm - and as I mentioned before, takes you into parcel mode, which means visits to the long queues at either the post office or the local shipping shop (not a simple drop into the postbox) - either way, a royal pita for me as I have so little time. Great if they all come at the same time and I can ship all at once, but they don't
/rant

If the consensus is to have a join-free fuselage, then I'm sure some other manufacturer can pick up the plan and run with it, I don't have an issue with that.

Cheers

Neil

Maybe you could change the phrase "Port wing tip, build two". A small point and obvious to seasoned builders but maybe not to the inexperienced.

Phil_G wrote: 23 Jul 2018, 12:58 Its not the tips I have a problem with Gary, my building board has a habit of only making left-hand fus sides.

I bought one of those boards as well - it can also do duplicate right hand sides too - think it has something to do with the moon phase

If splices were good enough for Phil Smith's 'Impala', then.... etc

Ha ha - you're right too, I had forgotten about that - bet they weren't as accurate as the laser though

GarydNB wrote: 23 Jul 2018, 11:07 Maybe you could change the phrase "Port wing tip, build two". A small point and obvious to seasoned builders but maybe not to the inexperienced.

Who are you calling a 'seasoned builder' then

Point taken, I'll modify that to "Port wing tip, build one" - then make another one in the opposite sense on the back of the plan using paraffin soaked into the surface so that you can see the construction lines on the front - or words to that effect Maybe it would be easier to ghost the right hand wingtip on to the plan 'though

Cheers

Neil

Are you printing the plans too Neil or do we have to use the old method of an Epsom printer and a roll of sellotape

Ron.

Ron wrote: 23 Jul 2018, 14:00 Are you printing the plans too Neil or do we have to use the old method of an Epsom printer and a roll of sellotape

I'm definitely not printing the plans, but I know a man that does - and makes a great job of it too !
Once we've finished with any more plan mods, I'll email it down to him and you can order directly from there.
There's no point in me getting involved in that side of things. TBH, printing on A4 and tape/prittstick will work perfectly ok for this.
Conversely, if you have a 27" iMac, then you can just show the plan at full size on screen, lay it on it's back face up and use some judiciously placed modelling pins to hold things down while everything sets up - just don't cut directly on the screen surface (I AM kidding of course children, don't try that at home )

BTW, how do we create a 'sticky' entry that I can edit - preferably at the beginning of the thread to hold the current plan ??

Latest plan bv1.03 linked - still need some consensus on the name

Cheers

Neil

download/file.php?id=2150

Hi Neil
I think you can only make topics sticky not entry’s.

Maybe make a topic in the documents section and call it plans then link everything to that. Not sure if it will work but should if you edit the plan but don’t delete it.
Might have to be admin to make it sticky but I can do that.

Ron

Ron wrote: 23 Jul 2018, 18:34 Maybe make a topic in the documents section and call it plans then link everything to that. Not sure if it will work but should if you edit the plan but don’t delete it.
Might have to be admin to make it sticky but I can do that.

Done, just added a 'Mode Zero Goblin' plan topic in Documents - don't know if it's sticky though. No doubt there will be more changes anyway - as well as the name

Link here -download/file.php?id=2150

Seems to work fine.

Cheers

Neil