


The Case:
As a typical frugal (aka tight) modeller I re-purposed an old aluminium project case that I had in stock from a home made 2 channel radio from the mid-70's. The level of metal working skills(?) I exhibited at the time are evident in the pictures - as much a reflection of my haste as anything else! Anyway, the question was how to fill all those holes and make the case usable? After I cleaned the original covering off the case, I thoroughly cleaned it inside and out, focusing on removing all traces of adhesive. I then filed and rubbed down all the cutouts removing all burrs. After another thorough clean, I then placed Kaptan tape on the outside over all holes in the case, making sure to pull it as taught as possible. I then turned the case over onto its face and filled all the holes with 30 minute epoxy, the whole lot then being cured in the oven at 100C for about an hour. After filing any excess resin off internally, I then glued a piece of 3mm ply to the inside of the case front - it's purpose was 2-fold; to provide additional support to the resin in-fills in the numerous old holes and to hopefully provide a more consistent resistance to the drill bits when I started drilling all the new holes. All the holes were then marked out on the outside of the case prior to drilling. I tried to position all of them in aluminum sections of the case rather then in a resin in-fill, for the most part succeeding. Even though I drilled very carefully using sharp bits, a few holes "walked" a little bit at any aluminium-resin junction as the bit size increased. Its noticeable to me, but if others have noticed, they have been too polite to comment!

Black automotive vinyl cladding was used to hide the many past sins. It stuck extremely well, and to my surprise even showed up the Kaptan tape overlaps, and that tape is pretty thin!!
Switches and pots:
I initially used guitar switches sourced via eBay, modified as per discussions on the previous forum. Unfortunately, these were obviously the cheap versions. I found that while fiddling on the bench, if the switch toggles were moved regularly past about 1/2 travel in either direction, the leaf spring contacts would deform (i.e. the metal in the spring contacts was too soft), making the reliability deteriorate over time and the switch action intermittent as well as feel spongy. I happened upon another switch on eBay available from a local supplier here in Aus. These turned out to have a very positive action while not needing excessive force to operate. The included black rubber boots match the black case as well as improving the appearance and comfort of the switches. I have since ordered replacement guitar switches, which from the pictures at least, look like the ones used by others in their reed Txs.
Initially, I have installed the travel speed pot on the top of the case. It is mounted in the hole cut for a telescopic antenna base. When I'm comfortable with the servo travel speed, I'll probably move the pot internal.
Module mounting:
The FrSky module is mounted on its side. I utilised the ply plate glued inside the case by cutting a groove into it to insert one of the two locking tongues on the module. A ply gusset keeps the module vertical, the module then held in place by a rubber band looped around the other locking tongue to a screw in the gusset – Simple and crude but effective

Software:
As stated previously, Phil's Reeduino code is used. The only changes were to amend the code to use JR channel sequence and the auxiliary channel. Both easy to do following Phil's instructions in the code. I used a 3 position switch for the auxiliary channel wired the same as the main self-centering guitar switches. The auxiliary servo travels to either extreme when the switch is in the first or third positions, but stops when the switch is placed into the second/middle position, similar to the trim function.
Labels:
Taking a leaf out of Ron's book (as well as pinching some of his examples


The completed Tx works exactly as it should - most satisfying




What to Fly it in?
It's well over 45 years since I flew with a reed set, and that was in a glider

